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THE Bosnian war ended either on November 21st 1995, when a peace accord was reached in an American air force base in Dayton, Ohio, or on December 14th, when the accord was signed in Paris.The actual date matters little: there have been no official events marking the 20th anniversary.In 1991, Bosnia and Herzegovina joined several republics of the former Yugoslavia and declared independence, triggering a civil war that lasted four years.

A line of young trees reveals where soldiers and locals had to chop down the original trees for firewood to keep warm and cook.

A poignant map near the entrance shows where Serb positions encircled the city.

The home visit is part of the tour operator Insight’s Home Dining initiative where tourists meet locals in their own homes.

The good quality roads date from Tito’s time: the Yugoslavs were among the world’s best civil engineers.

But all roads lead to Sarajevo’s cobbled old heart, the delightful old Ottoman quarter.

Spices scent the air in the labyrinth of 15th Century alleyways of Bašcaršija, the delightful old Ottoman bazaar in Stari Grad.

It is known as the Jerusalem of Europe thanks to its cathedrals, mosques and synagogue all side by side.

There are also new shopping centres close to dismal communist-era apartment blocks, eyesores further brutalised by bullet holes.

In the evening, we dine with a local family who welcome us into their apartment and cook for us.

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